Portugués Camino Day12: Roman Roads & Modern Pilgrims

DAY 12 ARCADE TO PONTEVEDRA, 12.35 miles, 26,890 Steps.

Water spiders lit by the sunlight streaming in

The Way was hilly today, and at the top of a several of the climbs were pop-up stands serving cherries and other fresh fruit, croissants, and coffee. Nice to take a break. When we were not climbing hills, it was dark forest walks, which I so enjoy.

What was remarkable about today is how we walked from the town of Arcade to the big city of Pontevedra, and the last few hours were all forest walk along a river or vineyards until The Way gently let us out into the big city. One of the things I generally dislike about big cities is that they are preceded by a long unpleasant road walk through the grimy industrial part before we get to any place that isn’t big trucks thundering by and industrial plants. Not so the Way into Pontevedra.

Forest Pop-ups & Bagpipes

Steve takes notes to blog later at one of the cafe pop-ups.

But I’m getting ahead of myself.  Still a good distance from Pontevedra, enterprising locals set up souvenir stands, and were happy to chat with us, give advice and stamp our credentials even if we didn’t buy anything. Getting closer to Pontevedra, there was music around many a bend, guitar/one man band, and from a distance a lonesome bagpiper echoing her haunting melody through the forest.  It seems bagpipes (or gaitas) are a traditional instrument of Galicia, though a wee bit sma’er than ‘eir Scottish kin, pitched higher, and played in these parts since the Camino was a young lassie. 

The Guardia Civil passed us going up hill as if we were not even moving.

Ancient Lavanderías were not footbaths, but now they are

Lavanderías

For the past week, I’ve thought they were ancient foot baths, remnants of a time when bathing was a luxury, and built for weary pilgrims craving relief. Turns out, they are lavanderías, or communal washing spaces of old where women gathered to socialize and clean clothes before running water became commonplace.  These days, they are mostly unused but for the weary pilgrims whose feet still need relief. We have taken advantage of a few so far on the Way, but only a small fraction of those we’ve seen.

Ruts in the Roman Roads

Think about all the chariots these Roman Roads had on them to wear down these ruts. 

Our route to Santiago de Compostela

Pontevedra

Now we’re in Pontevedra, after a surprisingly long and delightful forest/river walk, lined with vineyards. Marina and Suzanne have been texting and arranged to meet at the museum and later for dinner. We meet her friend Jasper from Amsterdam, who she met at the last albergue. On leave from his graduate studies, he has decided to Walk the Camino without technology, which has turned out to throw some major snafus his way, especially tonight as he just found a couch to sleep on for the night. Without a smartphone, making reservations is impossible, and as we get closer to Santiago, having a reservation is becoming more important.

Outside the museum, we experience wonderful Spanish hospitality: when you order a drink, a little snack always comes with it. It could be green olives, potato chips, peanuts in the shell, a toasted ham and cheese sandwich, or one of the fresh made pastries they have waiting for you on the counter. It’s always a delightful surprise. Marina packs away the gratis ham and cheese sandwich for tomorrow.

Tomorrow is Suzanne’s 60th birthday, so I’m making plans to have her backpack forwarded to the 4-star hotel we will stay in for two nights.  It’s called slackpacking, and Marina is fascinated by the idea of still hiking, but not carrying a backpack all day. Suzanne is excited for our zero day, but not so much for the big hill getting there. That is a problem for 60-year-old Suzanne, not 59-year-old Suzanne.

Catching up with Marina

Hyewon, Maria, Steve & Suzanne at a health food restaurant

Marina is doing well, and with giddy excitement tells us of her adventures since we parted a week ago.  During that time, she was kind to txt Suzanne off and on letting her know her whereabouts and tips for what lies ahead for us.  We meet Hyewon, a Korean young lady with a delightful sense of humor who has been walking with Marina for days.

Today a riverside Hórreos. See how they are all the same, yet all different or as the SE Asians would say “Same, Same but Different”

Tonight, we’re at a 3-star hotel, as a warm up for tomorrow’s 4-star. Actually, the town, hostels, albergue, and hotels were pretty much booked up, and this was one of the last places to could get a reservation for the night, as Marina’s technology-free friend Jasper learned. I gather there is some sort of festival happening, which seems to be a common occurrence in the larger cities we pass through. While we are checking in, several other pilgrims approach the desk asking if there is space. No, I’m afraid not. 

Day 12, and our shoes are starting to look as tired as their owners.